Sand Everywhere, Dogs Everywhere, Chickens Everywhere

uniquelytheo1 Comment

Saturday, September 12th (Day 3) dawned dark and cloudy, but that was not going to stop us as we had decided we would take the ferry to Aunu’u Island. We drove to Au’asi on the east end of Tutuila in search of the ferry dock. Our understanding was that the ferry ran back and forth throughout the day and would come more or less on demand. The “ferry terminal” was certainly not very imposing — in fact rundown would probably be the more accurate description. No airport could match this kind of “pre-boarding” lounge with its blue painted bench. But we waited patiently until a rather rickety-looking little boat finally appeared. She was a dented aluminum veteran well worn by the salt and sun and sporting yellow blue and orange racing stripes. We paid our fare, climbed precariously aboard, and soon were bouncing across the choppy waters.

As we stepped off our jalopy of a ferry, we were greeted by Joe, who immediately inquired of our plans and began subtly suggesting that perhaps we would like to see the island school. I’m always a believer in supporting the locals, and besides having somebody who actually knew where he was going seemed like a pretty good idea. So Joe and a stray dog became our guides. It already was quite apparent that one of the things the people of Aunu’u were particularly proud of was their school as he asked again if we wanted to see the school. Then he asked again! After, our dog-for-the-day joined us on the tour, he followed us around the island, and stayed with us throughout our beach explorations. He definitely was content with his temporary assignment as our official Aunu’u escort.

Aunu’u is a car free (though work vehicles exist), slow-paced island small island with about 400 people. in a close-knit Samoan community where traditional life remains important. It is an island of quicksand, swamps, taro plantations, and quiet village paths and wandering about here on this island was a very different experience from the developed parts of Tutuila we have been exploring.

We had come with snorkeling in mind, having read there were good reefs around the island. We walked farther along the beach guided by our dog-for-the-day, found a spot that looked promising, and began donning our gear. As usual, Tasia is the first “out of the gate” and thus first one in the water. She was also the first one back out. The current seemed just too strong to make snorkeling enjoyable or particularly sensible. She headed off in another direction to see if she could find calmer water. Bernadette and I decided we might at least try swimming, but the moment we got in the water it became clear that the current had other plans for us. we were battered by the waves and inundated with sand. So, swimming was not a good option either.

So plan B: beachcombing

We spent a good amount of time wandering the beach and searching for interesting pieces of coral and shells. Tasia was fascinated and spent considerable time filming little hermit crabs carting their houses around. Eventually we stopped for lunch and were joined by our-dog-for-the day companion who was quite eager to share our picnic. Around 1:00PM we decided to head back.

More about our dog-for-the-day. One thing we noticed everywhere in American Samoa was the abundance of dogs. Estimates have put the number of free-roaming dogs on Tutuila as more than 10,000. However I also heard that many aren’t truly stray but have owners but simply allowed to roam. Limited spraying and neutering, lax and inconsistent licensing, and limited veterinary care have all contributed to the problem. Dogs seem to be part of the landscape, wandering the roads, beaches, and villages often joining visitors as if they had no where else to be. Our Aunu’u companion certainly seemed to have perfected that last part and seemed quite content .

Another thing we couldn’t help noticing here and everywhere in American Samoa was the chickens that are everywhere. Baby chickens everywhere. Roosters strutting around as if they owned the place. At times it seems like we were moving through one enormous free-range farmyard.

One strong impression from this day and this part of the island was that there was sand everywhere. And I mean everywhere. It found its way into our feet, into our shoes, onto our clothes, and into places I’m fairly certain sand was never intended to go.

Back on Tutuila, since we were at the eastern end of the island we decided to explore a little more. First we drove through the post-card pretty villages of Tula, at the easternmost cape and then on to Onenoa, the northeastern most village. The road is paved but narrow, winding and unstriped. and it climbed steeply over a mountain ridge before ending at Onenoa, the last stop on Tutuila. After retracing our path we traveled north to Sailele on another steep curvy road.It was a real test of Tasia’s driving skills. What was a great relief it was for her that the speed limit on the island was 25 miles per hour everywhere.

Some of the things that stood out on this adventure were the prominent, lushly vegetated islets rising directly from the water– small offshore island called sea stacks. The beaches seemed to be a mix of volcanic rock, coarse coral sand, and pebbles.

In most towns the tree trunks are painted — and in many there are bands of red, white, and blue (occasionally another combination of colors). This decoration I learned serves multiple cultural, celebratory, and practical functions including patriotic display, a showcase of civic pride and honor of local heritage; demarcation of village boundaries; beautification; a welcoming visual indicator of community care; and, environmental protection as painting of the lower trunks of trees reflects intense tropical sunlight to prevent bark splitting and acts as a minor deterrent against crawling insects like ants.

One of the most distinctive features of every village we drove through was the abundance of the traditional open-sided Samoan fales used for family gatherings and important occasions. The buildings themselves are built elevated on a platform with a pillared perimeter designed to allow cool ocean breezes to pass through while serving as a central hub for gatherings and cultural events. We saw them in village after village — sometimes several in one place — reminders that the traditional Samoan way of life values family, community, community responsibility, service to others, and respect for elders.

By the time we finally returned to Sadie’s a refreshing dip in the pool seemed absolutely necessary — not just for cooling and relaxation but as a serious attempt to remove the sand from every part of our bodies. Once dressed and not wanting to get back into the car, we decided to eat dinner again at the Goat Island Cafe. As we ate , storms were moving through the area, and the sky rewarded us with the most beautiful rainbow – a full brilliant arc stretching across the sky. After a day that included a questionable ferry ride, a failed snorkeling expedition, enough sand to fill a sand box, and stray dogs and chickens, sitting there with a good meal of a wahoo burger gazing at a full rainbow seemed like a perfect ending to this day.

The 63rd Park and the Almost Trespass

uniquelytheoLeave a comment

Our first full day in American Samoa was devoted to getting the lay of the land, taking care of a few practical necessities, and most importantly officially visiting the National Park of American Samoa office. Since it was Friday and the office would be closed for the week-end, we knew we need to make that our first stop.

By 9:00 a.m., we had picked up our rental car and were on our way. Many people finish visiting all 63 national parks at American Samoa since it is the most distant, takes more planning, and is one of the hardest to reach (though Gates of the Arctic and Kobuk Valley in Alaska are only accessible through a fly in as there are no roads). When I mentioned to the park ranger that this was my 63rd and final national park, I was unexpectedly presented with a certificate commemorating the accomplishment. Visiting all 63 parks has been a years long dream and finally, after all those miles, hikes, planes, ferries, rental cars and questionable camping decisions, here I was on the island of Tutuila holding a certificate that said I had finally done it. What a great way to begin the day.

With that milestone officially recorded, we turned our attention to some considerably less glamorous necessities. We headed back toward the airport in search of a grocery store. We wanted to stock up on breakfast and lunch supplies as well as explore SIM cards for our iPhones.

The first stop was Blue Sky to get an electronic e-SIM for my phone since I needed to be able to use the iPhone when out and about and unable to depend on wi-fi. As with most cell phone stores, we walked it and immediately found ourselves at the back of a long line of customers. Fortunately the line moved surprisingly quickly . Then the next challenge: What plan? How much data? I had no idea what I was doing or what I needed but knew I needed a minimal plan. I had to trust the staff not to over-sell me. I gratefully emerged with a working phone and not a depleted checking account.

We stopped at the TSM grocery. As I have discovered in other countries, grocery shopping is rarely quite the same experience as it is in the Untied States. In the United States we have become accustomed to supermarkets where an entire aisle might be devoted to cereal, another salad dressing and approximately 47 varieties of cheese simply because we might want some variety. This was not that kind of grocery store. For example I was looking for lunch meat and cheese for sandwiches and quickly found that my options were limited. Tucked away in the corner of a refrigerated shelf unit, there were exactly two choices of lunch meat: chopped ham and baloney. And for cheese, I could choose between one block of cheddar or the individually wrapped slices of what I think of as “fake cheese” – the kind made from a blend of cheeses, termed American, and containing enough additives to make you wonder if it qualifies as cheese.

I had not eaten baloney and fake cheese in years and I wasn’t ready to revive that chapter of my culinary preferences. So I went with the chopped ham and block of cheddar. It wasn’t exactly the deli counter at Trader Joe’s but I would survive. We also stocked up on peanut butter, bread, oatmeal, apples, and fresh fruit so we could make our own breakfasts and picnic lunches and avoid having to dash out someplace for food every time we got hungry.

After lunch it was time to get into the water. Tasia decided snorkeling was a great idea. My vision was different. So while Tasia snorkeled, Bernadette and I dipped into the ocean and later moved onto the pool. I allowed myself to get wet without having to look at anything underwater.

Later in the day we walked into town to explore the waterfront. Pago Pago Harbor immediately caught my attention and I was struck by the massive number of shipping containers stacked along the waterfront. They seemed out of place against the lush mountains and blue waters. But it is a working port and it’s a vital supply link since American Samoa is remote and depends heavily on goods brought in from overseas. This deep harbor is well suited to host large vessels to transport the containers after which the cargo is distributed around the islands.

But what really caught my eye as I wandered about town were the busses. They were unlike any busses I had ever sees — brightly painted and wonderfully individual. These family owned busses (not by a transit agency), often locally built, are called “aiga” busses and carry people around the harbor and to villages throughout the island. They all seem to have their own personality and from what I hear there are no fixed schedules, cost about a dollar, and are replete with loud music and crowds. I had sorely wanted to ride one but time ran out.

The government buildings added another layer of interest. There is a significant concentration of governmental and historic buildings, including the Governor’s Mansion. We spotted a long driveway leading up to what appeared to be the mansion. There was a cinder block building off to the side with a NO TRESPASSING sign but it didn’t appear to be any other indication that the driveway was off limits or that sign was for the driveway. So naturally I wanted to investigate. We made our way farther and farther up the driveway in the heat of the afternoon wondering if this might actually be open to the public. As we approached the top a security guard appeared and informed us that NO, the area was not open to the public and yes, we needed to turn around.

We had a laugh. Somewhere along the way I had concluded that, since the sign indicating this was the government mansion was the same as other’s indicating historical attractions open to the public, this perhaps too might have tours, as it too is an historical building. Though it wasn’t an open-house attraction, we had gotten a nice look at the surrounds and sometimes a little harmless trespassing makes for a good story.

We wound up the day with dinner at the Goat Island Cafe at Sadie’s. It was time to start treating ourselves to to some of Samoa’s local seafood. Wahoo was my choice of the evening and a delicious way to end our first full day on Tutuila.

Arrived Exhausted, Woke Up in Paradise

uniquelytheo4 Comments

This trip had a special significance for me: visiting the National Park of American Samoa would complete my goal of visiting all 63 U.S. national parks. That milestone was the underlying reason for the journey and reaching this final park would not simply add another destination to the list. It would complete a long running quest that has taken me across the country and into so many truly remarkable places.

Our adventure began in Portland where we spent the night at the Radisson near the airport rather than risk an early morning drive to the airport from Salem ( where we would be picking up my youngest daughter Bernadette) for our 10:00 a.m. flight to American Samoa, with a plane change in Hawaii. Before we could even leave Portland, a before photo was clearly necessary. True to form my oldest daughter Tasia was already full of adventure and had no intention of waiting until we reached an actual beach to get in character. So for the photo, she donned her snorkel and mask. So , with Tasia ready for the South Pacific before we even left Oregon, our trip officially began.

The flights to American Samoa were surprisingly uneventful. We whiled away the nearly 12 hours of flight time with movies, reading, and eating very poor quality airplane food. One of the biggest challenges in this tech savvy family was keeping all of our watches, iPads, and iPhones charged. The three hour layover in Honolulu went quickly and soon we were on the final leg of the trip to American Samoa.

We arrived in American Samoa around 9:00PM. and that is when the real adventure began. Retrieving our luggage turned out to be a chaotic and surprisingly challenging affair. It was a madhouse. Many of the passengers arriving from Honolulu were native Samoans, and it appeared that a trip to Honolulu involved stocking up on products either for their own use or to sell back home. Everyone seemed to be waiting for multiple items such as enormous tubs (the favorite was a black tub with a yellow lid) , assorted packages and boxes. The luggage carts multiplied, the waiting area became completely jam-packed, and the bags emerged from the conveyor at what seemed to be a snails pace. We stood in the rear watching the mountain of luggage slowly make its way into the terminal wondering when our bags would finally appear. At last our meager little duffles emerged from the chaos. Compared with some of the enormous tubs and multiple suitcases, our luggage looked almost embarrassingly modest.

Of course, before we headed off to our hotels we still had to make it through immigration. Since unlike most of the others at the conveyor belt we were only waiting for one item each and managed to be amongst the first to go through the entry process, which went quickly and smoothly. Once on the other side we were met by the driver from Sadie’s by the Sea Hotel who loaded us into the hotel’s transportation van. We settled ourselves in and waited…and waited…and waited for the other passengers to arrive.

The drive from the airport didn’t initially give me much of an impression of what this tropical island would be like. The first part felt surprisingly industrial and somewhat run down , not at all like the lush pacific setting I had been expecting! Eventually however we reached the bay, and the scenery began to change. I was particularly puzzled by a row of dead tree trunks painted white stretching along the bay, each bearing a tattered small American flag. I have not been able to discern what that was about and have filed it away as one of the mysteries of American Samoa.

By the time we pulled into Sadie’s it was 11:30 PM. In searching for lodgings I found few lodging options as tourism is a very small part of the economy because of federal cabotage laws and the strong emphasis on Samoan cultures and the preference for slow, community centered development over resort style growth. This was a big part of the appeal for us and if we wanted to be located on the water there were scant options.

Our best choice for lodging was Sadie’s by the Sea. I knew Sadie’s was a quaint old motel from the online photos but it appeared to have been given a make over. The decor reminded me of the mid-century tropical motels on US 41 in Florida, with retro touches, sage green accents, creamy walls, wood-fluted panels and well worn carpet. It was surprisingly cozy. However no amount of decorating could completely disguise the fact that Sadie’s had been around for a while. It was definitely lived-in and well worn but somehow that became part of its charm. If I had to describe it, I’d use word like quirky, comfortable, tropical, and full of character and personality though it certainly wasn’t luxury and pretentious was definitely not going to be one of its problems. By the time I crawled into bed and turned out the light it was 2:00am.

I woke up about 6:00am the following morning — our first on Tutuila and stepped out onto the balcony. From the balcony, I experienced the soft early light of morning. Above the harbor clouds in shades of blue, gray and gold drifted across the sky. Beyond was a row of rugged peaks which appeared to be rising dramatically from the water. Palm trees were swaying around the pool. The bay shimmered with the first hint of sunrise. This was a pretty spectacular welcome.

After all the planning, packing and long journey from Medford OR I was feeling wonderfully happy. We actually had finally made it. Though still travel weary I stood there knowing that many adventures of hiking and snorkeling awaited and the trip was finally beginning

One Last Ascent and Then a Soak.

uniquelytheo3 Comments

It was exquisite to wake up in a luxurious bed in my teeny-tiny room at Timberline Lodge. After five night of tenting the bed felt absolutely palatial. I had no specific hiking agenda for the day, although I had considered getting in the car and heading down to hike the seven mile Ramona Falls  Trail. The for once wisdom got the better of me.  Why in the world would I leave this beautiful setting to exhaust myself on another long hike when I could find something much similar right here. So after a leisurely breakfast in my room, I decided to head up to the PCT junction and head south, rather than north as I had the day before.

As I was making my way up the trail, I noticed that the smoke seemed to be moving toward Mt. Hood. I began to worry that it might soon envelop the mountain and when I took the ski lift up the mountain later in the day, the views would be totally obscured. After about a half mile I turned around, retrieved my wallet, and headed toward the Magic Mile Ski Lift. This was actually part of my intended plan for later in the day, riding from the Lodge at 6000 feet to the unloading area at 7000 feet.

Once my feet were back on solid ground after being suspended on the chair lift seat, I had a few choices.  The first was not negotiable: I could eventually take the chairlift back down and not walk the two mile road down. I could wander around a while and then ride down, but there wasn’t much to wander around for: no gift shops, no restaurants, very thin air, though a very impressive view. 

And then, as you might have guessed, I decided 7000 feet wasn’t high enough. There was the summit of Mount Hood right in front of me. Why not hike just a little bit farther up? Of course I had no idea the summit was nearly a vertical mile above me.

Determined again to get a hike in and gain some more elevation, I spotted a trail – or what passed for one in my mind, heading upward from the chair lift so I started climbing. For a brief few minutes it seemed entirely reasonable. Then the terrain became increasingly perilous and the trail less distinct. At times the soil was loose, the rocks were not particularly stable and often a step forward involved a slide backwards. I managed perhaps about another one-third of a mile before the precariousness of the whole endeavor finally penetrated my brain and this time I actually listen to my anxious gut as well. So I perched on a rock and took some time to experience the view.

And then came the least “glamorous part” of getting back down.  I began the descent picking my way through the sliding sand and loose rock wondering briefly how I convinced myself that going up had been a good idea in the first place.  I wasn’t particularly surprised to discover that no one else appeared to be following this particular urge to get closer to the top of the mountain.

Reflecting back on this adventure riding down on the lift , I felt pretty good about the decision.  I hadn’t made it very far, but I had made it farther than any sensible person would have made it and I did manage to acknowledge the difference between challenging myself and tempting fate.

After my foolhardy climb, I decided it was definitely time to try out the swimming pool and hot tub after what I have been putting my body through the last few day. So after a break and lunch I headed over to the pool deck. It was an unbelievable treat — and probably one of the loveliest pools I have swum in, in a long time. Perfect temperature and no hint of a chemical smell that usually accompanies a disinfected swimming pool. The hot tub was equally wonderful: just the right temperature. After a long swim and soak I was ready to take on the rest of the evening.

For dinner I chose the not-so-pricy Ram’s Head Bar. As an early bird, I managed to snag the best seat in the house.  I have learned the hard way that unless you actually ask for what you want—particularly as a single woman dining alone – you will not get it but be seated in a less desirable location. So I asked specifically for the center table overlooking Mount Hood.  And I got it.

The choices were certainly more reasonable that in the Cascade Dining room and I settled on a gourmet grilled cheese with avocado dressing. I began to suspect though that the cook had interpreted my request as a blackened grilled cheese…considerably well done. I’m not shy about complaining when something isn’t right, but at this point I decided I would settle in and enjoy the evening rather than create a “take this back to the kitchen and bring me another one “ situation. I was perfectly happy sitting there with my view of Mt. Hood. After all I had survived unstable rocks, a questionable mountain ascent, and a chair lift. A slightly over-toasted grilled cheese didn’t seem worth making an issue. After dinner I headed outside to check on the fire.  It continued to rage in the valley, the smoke spreading across the landscape. Another fire was flaring in the south. 

I was feeling sad that this was my last night at Timberline. I was grateful for the opportunity to experience this incredible historic lodge, for the surrounding mountains and for this whole Oregon hiking adventure had turned out to such a memorable one. There was the ever present smoke from Oregon fires, the choice to hike a trail called Misery Ridge , the grueling trudge through lava fields, camping in a forest dungeon, my ill-advised attempt to head further up Mt. Hood…But there was also spectacular mountain views, two luxurious night at Timberline Lodge, quiet nights camping in the forest and the satisfaction that at 82 I could still head out on my own and have one hell of a great adventure.