One Last Ascent and Then a Soak.

It was exquisite to wake up in a luxurious bed in my teeny-tiny room at Timberline Lodge. After five night of tenting the bed felt absolutely palatial. I had no specific hiking agenda for the day, although I had considered getting in the car and heading down to hike the seven mile Ramona Falls  Trail. The for once wisdom got the better of me.  Why in the world would I leave this beautiful setting to exhaust myself on another long hike when I could find something much similar right here. So after a leisurely breakfast in my room, I decided to head up to the PCT junction and head south, rather than north as I had the day before.

As I was making my way up the trail, I noticed that the smoke seemed to be moving toward Mt. Hood. I began to worry that it might soon envelop the mountain and when I took the ski lift up the mountain later in the day, the views would be totally obscured. After about a half mile I turned around, retrieved my wallet, and headed toward the Magic Mile Ski Lift. This was actually part of my intended plan for later in the day, riding from the Lodge at 6000 feet to the unloading area at 7000 feet.

Once my feet were back on solid ground after being suspended on the chair lift seat, I had a few choices.  The first was not negotiable: I could eventually take the chairlift back down and not walk the two mile road down. I could wander around a while and then ride down, but there wasn’t much to wander around for: no gift shops, no restaurants, very thin air, though a very impressive view. 

And then, as you might have guessed, I decided 7000 feet wasn’t high enough. There was the summit of Mount Hood right in front of me. Why not hike just a little bit farther up? Of course I had no idea the summit was nearly a vertical mile above me.

Determined again to get a hike in and gain some more elevation, I spotted a trail – or what passed for one in my mind, heading upward from the chair lift so I started climbing. For a brief few minutes it seemed entirely reasonable. Then the terrain became increasingly perilous and the trail less distinct. At times the soil was loose, the rocks were not particularly stable and often a step forward involved a slide backwards. I managed perhaps about another one-third of a mile before the precariousness of the whole endeavor finally penetrated my brain and this time I actually listen to my anxious gut as well. So I perched on a rock and took some time to experience the view.

And then came the least “glamorous part” of getting back down.  I began the descent picking my way through the sliding sand and loose rock wondering briefly how I convinced myself that going up had been a good idea in the first place.  I wasn’t particularly surprised to discover that no one else appeared to be following this particular urge to get closer to the top of the mountain.

Reflecting back on this adventure riding down on the lift , I felt pretty good about the decision.  I hadn’t made it very far, but I had made it farther than any sensible person would have made it and I did manage to acknowledge the difference between challenging myself and tempting fate.

After my foolhardy climb, I decided it was definitely time to try out the swimming pool and hot tub after what I have been putting my body through the last few day. So after a break and lunch I headed over to the pool deck. It was an unbelievable treat — and probably one of the loveliest pools I have swum in, in a long time. Perfect temperature and no hint of a chemical smell that usually accompanies a disinfected swimming pool. The hot tub was equally wonderful: just the right temperature. After a long swim and soak I was ready to take on the rest of the evening.

For dinner I chose the not-so-pricy Ram’s Head Bar. As an early bird, I managed to snag the best seat in the house.  I have learned the hard way that unless you actually ask for what you want—particularly as a single woman dining alone – you will not get it but be seated in a less desirable location. So I asked specifically for the center table overlooking Mount Hood.  And I got it.

The choices were certainly more reasonable that in the Cascade Dining room and I settled on a gourmet grilled cheese with avocado dressing. I began to suspect though that the cook had interpreted my request as a blackened grilled cheese…considerably well done. I’m not shy about complaining when something isn’t right, but at this point I decided I would settle in and enjoy the evening rather than create a “take this back to the kitchen and bring me another one “ situation. I was perfectly happy sitting there with my view of Mt. Hood. After all I had survived unstable rocks, a questionable mountain ascent, and a chair lift. A slightly over-toasted grilled cheese didn’t seem worth making an issue. After dinner I headed outside to check on the fire.  It continued to rage in the valley, the smoke spreading across the landscape. Another fire was flaring in the south. 

I was feeling sad that this was my last night at Timberline. I was grateful for the opportunity to experience this incredible historic lodge, for the surrounding mountains and for this whole Oregon hiking adventure had turned out to such a memorable one. There was the ever present smoke from Oregon fires, the choice to hike a trail called Misery Ridge , the grueling trudge through lava fields, camping in a forest dungeon, my ill-advised attempt to head further up Mt. Hood…But there was also spectacular mountain views, two luxurious night at Timberline Lodge, quiet nights camping in the forest and the satisfaction that at 82 I could still head out on my own and have one hell of a great adventure.

I Had Better Watch My Reputation

I woke up the morning of the sixth day eager to break camp and head back up to Mt. Hood and Timberline Lodge. I made short work of breaking camp. Since most of what I had been camping with would need to be cleaned once I got home, there seemed little point in carefully folding and packing everything as I normally would. I pretty much stuffed it all in my car and called that good enough! I still love camping and undoubtedly will do more of it, but I think I have established one important criterion for future trips: no more forest dungeons!

Once everything was packed, I headed out for my hike of the day. I knew I would not be able to get into the Lodge until mid-afternoon, so I had plenty of time. And don’t be shocked — I had chosen another easy hike: the Trillium Lake Trail. I was no longer looking for a hike that would prove my character. I had proved my character several times already and frankly my character was exhausted.

When I got close to the park entrance however I encountered a tent to collect fees for Trillium Lake.  I got into  a verbal altercation with the fee collectors because I was convinced that, as a Golden Age passport holder, I should not have to pay anything extra. This was National Forest Land, after all and I assumed my pass covered tit.  I proceeded to ask the fee collector just what they would do if I drove on ahead and did not pay the fee. But I knew I had lost the battle and  I soon relented and ponied up the fee. I was however so tempted to see what would happen if I did cruise on in, especially since there was a long line of cars now behind me waiting to pony up their fee.

I eventually discovered that the Forest Service and National Park Service sometimes contract with private concessionaires to operate certain facilities and collect fees.

Once I got over being mad about it, I cautiously enjoyed the hike. Cautiously because I was beginning to worry that these easy drama-free hikes were becoming a habit. I could not let that continue. After all, I had a reputation of questionable judgement to maintain that I had work so hard on this trip to establish.

The trail was relatively level, with wonderful views of Mt. Hood, boardwalks crossing wetlands, and compact gravel sections along the shores of this beautiful lake. The rational self thought that this is just what I need but my inner skeptic wasn’t so sure. It was akin to a stroll in the park rather than a hike in the wilderness. There were families out walking, individual fishermen casting their lines, picnickers enjoying the shoreline, and one or two brave paddle-boarders venturing out onto what I assumed was extremely chilly water.

At what I thought was the end of the trail I arrived at a familiar dock area and headed off to find my car. Of course the car was nowhere in sight. Alas, another opportunity to test my not-very-astute navigational skills. I wandered around in circles for a while, trying to look like I knew exactly where I was headed. Eventually I came across another Y in the road and I followed it. Lo and behold, there was another identical dock and with minimal searching I found the car. This whole episode is laughable. Apparently even an easy hike can turn in to an adventure when one’s sense of direction was questionable.

Satisfied with my Trillium  Lake outing, I headed up to Timberline. It was around noon and my room would not be ready until about 1:30. But hanging out in this beautiful, historic hotel was hardly a hardship.  Before long I was ensconced in my “preferred room.”  Having seen pictures of the room, I basically knew what to expect.  But somehow, once I was actually inside it, I was face to face with how small this room actually was. My friend Lorraine had originally planned to join me, and I found myself laughing at the thought of the two of us trying to maneuver around and tripping over  each other. For some reason I had assumed the room in  this pricy hotel would be total luxury.  Well…not exactly.

This old historic building , of course had no central air or heat. Instead , guest are provided with a pop-in screen for the window and a free standing fan. The walls are beautifully wood paneled but not much in the way of sound proofing. I could clearly hear the conversation of the people in the room next door. Finding enough outlets for all my electronic devices was another challenge. Somewhere in the room I was sure there was an outlet behind a piece of furniture which I couldn’t move. All these tech gadgets would now have to take turns .

But the bed was luxurious and I LOVED every bit of it. After five nights of sleeping on a cot in my tent, I was probably predisposed to find most any real bed luxurious. But still it did seem to achieve a level of luxury I hadn’t experience in a long time and now was the most important feature in the room. I parked my self on that bed and enjoyed a quiet afternoon.

Yes, you heard that right: a quiet afternoon. No packing, no hiking uphill, no getting lost. Just me, the bed and a book.

After five nights of camping, I had decided I deserved a little pampering so I had made a reservation for dinner in the main dining room and it turned out to be quite an lovely experience. The setting, the food, and the service were all wonderful. The prices were another matter. With the least expensive entrees in the  $50.00 range, it was a serious departure from my camping meals which typically are all dehydrated backpacker fare –  just add water.  But after five nights of cots, camp food, and forest dungeons I decided it was a splurge worth making. I had an extremely solicitous waiter, a delicious meal, and only minor regrets about a one hundred dollars plus meal (for one). 

After dinner I went back outside to see what was happening with the fires. They were definitely in full swing with smoke flooding the valleys to the east creating a haze ominous landscape. But when I turned and looked south it was an entirely different world. The air was clear, the mountains stretched out layer upon layer. I was reminded that despite the comfort and history surrounding me  at Timberline Lodge, the wildfires were still very much a factor to be considered.  I had spent the day moving from a dark campsites to an historic lodge, from one dock to another, from an argument about a small inconsequential fee to a very expensive dinner. But I reminded myself that something far more serious was taking place out east. The fires offered smoke, uncertainty, and a reminder that nature still is in charge and has the final word.