Uniquely Theo

I am not sure how Kodiak Island made it onto my bucket list of things to see in Alaska this summer . Since this will be my last summer living in Soldotna AK I wanted to maximize my experience . In researching it, it seemed like would be a good fit for my venturesome self. The Discover Kodiak Visitor Guide states 

“It is filled with giant bears, spouting whales, extraordinary birds, and brightly colored salmon jumping from the rivers. The lush green summer months earn Kodiak Island the nickname, “The Emerald Isle”. Prepare yourself to realize that a place this incredible actually exists.” 

Additionally I could use the Alaska Marine Highway to get there, giving me a mini-preview of what the voyage from Skagway AK to Bellingham Washington would be like this fall.  So I created a magical itinerary for my three full days of adventure, enjoying what I imagined would be a quaint town with coffee shops, stores and restaurants; a drive out to Fossil Beach for some beach combing and then on to Cape Chiniak to explore; a hike up Pillar Mountain; a visit to  White Sands Beach and Fort Abercrombie State Park and time permitting a hike there; and an exploration of  both the North End and the Sound Trails on  Near Island. I wondered if it was a bit ambitious but was anticipating this getaway with much eagerness. 

The part of the brochure that I totally ignored in my imaginings was:

“Part of the charm of Kodiak is the unpredictable weather. The weather allows Kodiak to bloom into “The Emerald Isle”. It allows all of the things you come to see – the bears, whales, puffin, and salmon to thrive here. Summers can be perfection, but they can also be rainy, windy, and foggy with a side of overcast. Don’t worry though, you are visiting one of the world’s most exotic islands and your memories will not be about the weather.”

Now I am wise enough to have packed good rain gear, extra hiking shoes, and clothing after last summers incessant rain for two months on the Kenai Peninsula. But I was quite disappointed and disgruntled that all Kodiak did serve up was rain, wind, and fog, mist, and overcast with a temperature range of 45-49 degrees. It definitely dampened my spirits and my body. Sadly , the weather became the overarching memory of this excursion.

The journey began with a 90 minute drive from Soldotna to Homer. The weather was favorable, a cerulean sky, and I marveled at the view of the mountain across the Cook Inlet, visible with an early morning glow.

I had decided to park at the Homer airport, as I was winging it back, and take a taxi to the Alaska Maritime Highway Ferry Terminal at the end of the Homer Spit. I was astonished at how this 2 mile stretch of road, Homer Spit Road, became a massive parking lot for hundreds of cars, all manner of recreational vehicles, boat trailers, with “parking lot campsites”, ” and a few seafood restaurants and souvenir shops squeezed in. But, it all went seamlessly and I boarded the Tustumena with much ado made by the massive flock of seagulls wafting about. The covered gangway to board the ship definitely spares passengers from the chance bombardment of either the gulls or their excrement.

The Alaska Marine Highway

Highway: Merriam-Webster defines highway as “a public way especially a main direct road.” It commonly used for one connecting major towns or cities. I typically envision an interstate, freeway, main artery etc. usually paved and maintained. The visit to Kodiak require that I expand my vision of what a highway is! I had opted to take the Alaska Marine Highway from Homer to Kodiak – a 126.1 mile 9.5 hour “cruise” on the Tustumena, churning through the Gulf of Alaska at 11.27 knots miles per hour… definitely not an expressway at sea. This being a working car ferry, it brought back fond memories of the car ferry and ride we took across the Staits of Mackinac from Mackinaw City to St. Ignace before the Mackinac bridge was built…a journey that was spare, quite windy but short.

Since ”cruise” means a journey over water in a vessel, that this was thought NOT luxurious and NOT for you if you want a deluxe experience with entertainment and casinos, buffets, and a pool. It might be describe as “spare” accommodations but perfectly adequate to get from port to port on a limited budget. Since much of Alaska is boggy and remote, there are no highways connecting vast areas, so it is a boon for those who can’t afford the luxury of bush planes or float planes to more distant remote areas. So I joined the hikers, backpackers, families and fisherman for the day. I actually enjoy this as much or more than the fancy-dancy cruises I have been on being a backpacker and camper at the core for many years.. The partly sunny skies of Homer very soon gave way to the cloudy and misty skies in the Gulf and a stiff wind, so my vision of sitting out on deck, enjoying the open water teaming with wildlife and the scenery – mostly an occasional craggy glacier carved islands – was quelled.

The upside was that there were many options on the interior of the Tustumena to settle down in and while away the hours. I opted for a booth as home base with room to spread out, store my suitcase under the table, be proximate to a bathroom and the Coke machine, the common microwave, and the ice machine available for all. The many people who can sleep anywhere and at anytime could be found asleep in the lounges, on couches and chairs, the floor, in the deck in sleeping bags etc, . There were even public showers available but definitely not on my dance card that day. A dining room offered 3 meals but I opted to only have dinner as I brought lunch and snacks fearing the prices of food would be astronomical. But the prices were reasonable and food in the dining room was acceptable, though not exactly gourmet.

Overall this is a good opportunity to “unplug” as no wi-fi and minimal cell service is available. So the 9 hours actually passed quite quickly with reading, snacking, playing games on my iPad, dining, and often cruising the outside deck buffeted by the wind hoping to spot the acclaimed proliferation of wildlife to be seen. Here is my list of sightings: 0

I found cruising into the Kodiak Harbor was probably the most picturesque part of the days journey, given the narrow channel and lush  greenery on numerous rocky islets alongside; the bridge to Near Island spanning the channel; the fishing boats, boat yards and marine gear and services for all the commercial fisherman, cargo ships, cruise ships and passenger vessels, and recreational boats. The highly touted plethora of bald eagles, sea otters, and Steller sea lions, which are frequent visitors to the harbor,  chose this point in time to not be part of the non-existent welcoming committee. The town itself is a compact area next to the harbor dockage, spread out for about 4-5  blocks, and I could see the Compass Suites Hotel, which I had booked, on the hillside. With no welcoming committee or anyone to get guidance from, no taxis in the area, and an unsuccessful quest for a map in the Ferry office ( no detailed map exist  so I assume it is a given that everyone has google maps on there cell phone and that a paper map is an anachronism). I decided to hoof it, dragging my suitcase the few blocks and was very grateful to arrive at the hotel around 9:00 PM, settle into a very pleasant  room overlooking the harbor.