The next day’s dawn was a miniscule brighter than the previous days and the forecast was for cloud cover but NOT rain.  Without a car (thank goodness), I wanted to stay “local’ or hire a taxi. I was eager for a walk-about day after two days of extended time on the derriere. After I downed the not so sumptuous standard hotel breakfast bar food, I decided to  walk over to Near Island (which actually wasn’t that far) and hike both the North End and the South End Trails. 

As I peered at the bridge to Near Island upon approaching Kodiak via ferry, I found it a we bit imposing (given the size and remoteness of this island), spanning the entrance to St. Paul Harbor in Chenega Bay and the city of Kodiak . The Fred Zharoff Bridge arched from the mainland, just across the channel from downtown Kodiak to Near Island. I began to create in my mind a small area developed with shops, restaurants, parks and the two lauded hiking trails that I had read about when planning this trip. I had seen a blip about Near Island Coffee on restaurantguru.com : “a cozy coffee and tea shop located there…is well known for its great service and friendly staff that is always ready to help you. ” The Kodiak Fisheries Research Center and Laboratory with a 3500 gallon Aquarium and Touch Tank is located there as well. Beginning the journey I was able to appreciated the vantage point of downtown Kodiak from mid-bridge.

Was I ever in a lala land… there was no thriving touristy retail center. Near Island was primarily commercial-industrial area with fishing trawlers and other boat moorings and a sea plane base.   Near Island Coffee was basically a drive up kiosk. Now, I really am the outdoors type and not all that touristy, so I even surprised myself with my expectations. Since I was primarily there for the hiking though, the North End Trail head presented right at the  bridge egress. 

It felt at times as if I was being transported into a world of super-sized hobgoblins. Sitka spruce trees shaded most of this trail and they have done a stellar job of mossing up. I have dubbed it the  Hall of Mosses. A variety of greens that dominates the scenery of this temperate rainforest thrills the eye. I found it enchanting and primeval with the array of mosses (the word that comes to mind is lush) and lichens under the canopy of these old-growth trees.  

 The trail is mostly well marked but since I have always been directionally challenged, there were a couple of points where I found  myself walking in circles…  lost in gnome land .. but not really very lost. Additionally, I enjoyed the excellent views from an observation deck, a couple small beaches to visit,  and the fine views of  Kodiak and Chineak Bay . 

The South End Trail was yonder down the road towards Trident Basin Seaplane Base. I had trekked the road to the Kodiak Fisheries Research Center and Laboratory and came upon a trail sign indicating an intermediate trail connecting to the Rotary Gazebo and the South End Trail. Given my concept of “gazebo,” I couldn’t quite envision one in a forest draped with moss and lichen. But alas, a clearing and what I would call a picnic shelter turned out to be the Rotary Gazebo and Park. ’Twas a convenient spot for lunch!

This trail was a bit rougher, squishier, with roots popping up in hopes of tripping up this unsuspecting hiker. It was slow going but probably less than a mile and I came upon the gravel road and what might have been the beginning or end of the South End Trail.

I gambled that this was my destination trail and proceed to hike up what I later heard was the Harbor View Trail which connects to South End Trail…literally at the south tip of this island. The rocky terrain I was trekking followed a chain link fence, clearly erected to prevent any foolish hikers from loping on down to the gravel excavation site. Believe it or not, given some of my previous endeavors, I was not tempted. I was setting my eyes upon some lovely and not so lovely sights: the gravel excavations, the breakwater to Kodiak Harbor and St. Herman Harbor (aka Dog Bay on Dog Salmon Bay Road) where the biggest commercial fishing vessels tie up; the Stellar Sea Lions, who are purported to be hanging out near the breakwater in absentia; City Dock Two on the mainland where the MS Roald Amundsen Cruise Ship was docked; and hundreds of additional moorings for commercial fishing boats. Trivia: Kodiak is the third largest commercial fishing port in the United States.

The  coastal trail soon entered coastal rain forest of sitka spruce at times but it wasn’t quite as thrilling as  the lush enchanted forest of North End Trail. The path  mostly hugged the coast and though  semi-improved, it was replete with the mud, rocks and roots that like to challenge a hikers forward momentum. Thank goodness for a few short  boardwalks at some of the muddiest locations. At the southernmost termination I opted to enjoy the marvelous  views of Chiniak Bay, perching on the edge of one of the  wooden benches  which still retained the leavings of yesterdays rains.

I plodded back via the gravel road to the much anticipated reward for a day well spent: a venti non-fat latte from the oh so famous Near Island Coffee Kiosk. I perched again on a wet park bench waiting for the caffeine to kick in to power my legs back across the bridge to my Kodiak abode. Having clocked about six miles of hiking, my legs were spent, even though my money was not. I again opted to not trudge down the hill and ate remnants of my lunch, and the fruit and baby carrots I had in the room. Not totally yummy but it was food and I saved myself the climb back up the very steep drive to the Compass Suites.

Being eternally hopeful ( or should I say hope springs eternal) for a turn in the weather, my hopes were yet again dashed as I peered out the doors to the balcony and it was even grayer and large drops of rain were falling with a relentless force. Since the plan was to stay local and explore the city of Kodiak, I was definitely not in a frenzy to get out there and explore every nook and cranny of this very Alaskan berg. I did venture on out about 9:00 am, encased in a bright pink rain jacket much too large now for my shrinking frame, green rain pants, my trail shoes,  but sans umbrella. My mindset was to trot merrily in the rain  around town, perhaps have a nice lunch, and do a bit of shopping. By the time I negotiated the short distance down the street to the town center, I did not much feel like prancing in the rain but trudged around the area in hopes of feeling inspired by a shop, church, museum, or just about anything to distract me from the rain that was now seeping in through a slit in my rain jacket. I found the town to be quite utilitarian and bordering on a classic strip mall with a large carpark to support it.

But being bull headed and determine to experience this town, I went to visit the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Center. CLOSED! A stop in at the visitors center didn’t yield a whole lot of new information or ideas. So  I wandered though the port and industrial dock area and then headed further down the street to visit the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Russian Orthodox Church and Saint Herman Theological Seminary. I was quite satisfied to view the exterior and opted out of taking my rain soaked dripping self inside. Same rationale was used regarding visiting the Alutiiq Museum and Kodiak History Museum. I love reading history, love historical novels, but have never been a big fan of visiting museums, especially in wet gear. 

I slogged back to the town center for the anticipated shopping for souvenirs — though why would I even want a souvenir as a hallmark of this trip. Much to my relief the two stores that might even have something memorable to purchase were closed so that solved that dilemma. No browsing, no money spent. As it was a bit early for lunch I opted to return to the hotel, dry out, pack up and then decide what to do with the 2.5 hours before I got the shuttle to the airport.

This is not a touristy town center and I wonder if the patrons off the cruise ships that dock here are as surprised as I have been by the blandness of this town. It just did not feel like there was any hum or buzz to it. Now,  I am sure that my perspective is definitely tinged by my age, my style of eating, being a non-drinker, definitely preferring outdoors adventures, and of course the overlay of inclement weather. Since this was not a day for sitting out with a coffee,  reading and people watching until it was time to go to the airport,  upon checking out by the appointed time, I enjoyed the lovely hotel lobby and caught up on a lot of reading.

Another shock was the air service by Alaska Air in-out of Kodiak, a town of approximately 6000. It has a huge runway and it flies a Boeing 737 in and out. The airport gate area definitely was not designed to hold the large number of passengers that the jet aircraft can hold. Packed into the waiting area like sardines,  I was not particularily appreciating the ripeness of some of the outdoors adventures or the high level of humidity in this enclosed area from the plethora of  wet outwear.  Since I had started in Homer I had to fly back there by the very circuitous route of a 1 hour flight  to Anchorage , a 3 hour layover and a 45 minute RAVN AK flight to Homer– a 5 hour journey to go what would have been 132 air mile across the Gulf of Alaska had I been able to fly direct. It was no surprise to deplane in the rain and then drive an hour and one half back to Soldotna in this same low pressure weather system that has locked in over the peninsula.

Was I disappointed . Yes and no! Since I was mostly confined to the road system and town, I did not see any kodiak bears but I had not expected to see any of Kodiak’s large population of bears. Other than that it was a great experience just going with the flow, dancing in the rain (well not quite dancing) and embracing whatever Mother Nature spewed forth. even if I have groused about it a bit!