Uniquely Theo

I was awake at 5:30 and feigned sleep until six so the dogs wouldn’t get up and I would not have to crawl out of the tent too soon on this chilly morning. In that I had decided to visit Mount Rushmore today I was glad that we could get an early start as I would have to leave the dogs in the car and had no idea if there was any shade and what the days temps would be later on. Well I did not need to worry about that. Much to my dismay and I must admit disgust there was a parking garage and a ten dollar parking fee. Actually there were four good sized three story garages. So I was relieved to be able to leave the car in the lower story and not have to worry about the sun and heat. But somehow this commercial enterprise bothers me . There was no other place anywhere near to park so everyone gets stuck if they want to see this magnificent monument. Never-the-less I am truly inspired by this sculpture commemorating the grandeur of the monumental legacy of four great American Presidents: Washington, Lincoln, Theodore Roosevelt, Abraham Lincoln. I certainly have no idea what the monument was like before the introduction of the garage, terraces, Avenue of Flags, amphitheater, and light show but somehow with so much development around I find it detracts from the sculpture itself. In my mind it could stand alone as the attraction. It was certainly good to reflect up the contributions of these great men to our democracy, equality and preservation of our land.

Right across the street I found a wonderful dog friendly trail. The Blackberry Trail took us down into a wooded canyon and connected up with the Centennial Trail. Since there was not another human out there (with the throngs of humans a stones throw across the road) I let the dogs run free. Happy, happy dogs. It was quite the treat for them since they have had to put up with hours and days worth of my not very dog friendly activities. I had planned to do couple miles on the Centennial Trail, a hiking trail that runs north to south through the Black Forest, but after the wild wind storm and rain the previous night it was a wet muddy mess that did not appeal to me, nor were the dogs too keen on slugging through mud and tall grass. Were I a through hiker, yes I would have slogged through it but NOT today! So we headed back to the parking garage after 2.5 miles. I knew I was on the ground level of parking garage building 2 but someone misplaced it after I left I think. I passed building 4 and 3 and then the next building was number 1. Two was not before or after it. So we did a half mile hiking around under the parking garage before we found 2 . It was behind 1 and only accessible by going up a level and ignoring the no dogs beyond here sign. It really felt strange hiking around garages with dogs in tow but we did ad a half mile! We got a lot of strange looks since signs everywhere said NO DOGS. I did check it out with a ranger that I could walk them through the garage without being afraid that some do good park employee would pull my Golden Age Passport.

Since it still was just passed noon I thought I would tour on to Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave National Monument. But before I knew it “Pretty Priss” (my cars name) was turning into the Crazy Horse Memorial. I think the spirit of Crazy Horse it what drew me here. It seems fitting to me to have a memorial to a Native American hero as well in this area. Since I am now “tight” with his descendants, I also figured it was a necessary visit. Somehow it never occurred to me that there would be yet another parking and admission fee. I paid the $11.00 dollars only after I checked their policy on bringing dogs in. Since dogs were allowed to be on the walks and the terrace, I thought I would join in the memorialization of Crazy Horse. It is such a massive undertaking as it is to be the worlds largest sculpture but remains a work in progress, since work commenced in1948. It more than likely will not be finished in my lifetime but I do hope my grandchildren will know the whole history that is personified in their area of the great American Presidents as well as Native American heroes and history.

Soon I was traveling on as dogs were not permitted in most building and it was way to hot to leave them in the car. As it was later in the afternoon both Wind Cave and Jewel Cave tours were sold out. I must admit, cave tours are not high on my bucket list of things to do on vacation so I was not terribly disappointed. It was quite enjoyable winding through the rolling grassland, pine-spruce forests, mountains, pinnacles of granite, ravines and spotting an occasional bison in the grasslands of Wind Cave NP. What a thrill it is to see those massive bison roaming free in the grassland of the national parks when not that many years ago thy were almost extinct. So it was back to our National Forest Campsite.

This campsite was right off of Highway 16A, an icon road in South Dakota that was an engineering marvel at the time and is still quite the thrill to drive up Iron Mountain with its hairpin turns, one lane bridges and tunnels. I can’t think of many people who would be drawn to want to stay at a campground named Grizzly Creek in Hells Canyon. The name certainly drew my attention and I made the reservation. Just had a thought. I hiked Blackberry Trail today and found NO blackberries. Bummer! Then I returned to Grizzly Creek and found NO grizzlies. Ecstatic. This was a delightful small primitive campground with no electric or showers. Good old aromatic vault toilets and spigots for water. I love it because I don’t have to shower for a change. I can just be au naturel. But the dozen site were occupied with mostly families and it was joyful to be able to see the young families (and often 3 generations together) in tents and hiking. Makes me yearn even more to be closer to my adult children and grandchildren. I then followed out usual camp routine of simple food on the Colemen stove, and a wonderful campfire. It is great how the smell of smoke on everything from the fires now covered a lot of what would be showered off!

 

Upon leaving Hot Springs around noon, I decided to make a “pilgrimage “ to the Wounded Knee Massacre Historical Site. I have always had a keen interest in Native American History and read “Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee” last year when I had hoped to make the trip here. Even though I have known of the bloody history and carnage brought on Native Americans in the name of the “white settlers” need for more land and more territory, I felt especially enraged at a new level upon reading this narrative of the stealing of land and territory and slaughter of Native Americans. It was important to me to visit this site and reflect and ponder again the terrible atrocities wrecked on the many tribes but especially the Lakota Nation as the site is in the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation and territory is in this area of South Dakota. There was such a sombre pall I felt as I gazed across the grasslands and upon the ridges there. It was a powerful vista and made even more so by the Oglala cemetery on a hill that is part of the massacre site. For someone like myself who has such a peaceful heart and soul, it is hard to even imagine such malice in the human heart.

I had the opportunity to converse with members of the Elk Family, “Hehaka Tiospaye” as they have an arts and crafts table at the site. They are Oglala Lakota, a tribe of the Sioux, a proud descant of “Crazy Horse. James talked with me about the massacre and took the time to point out the spots where the women and children were slaughtered but for one child he called ”Lost Bird.” Lost Bird lived many years and her grave could be found at the cemetery atop the hill where there is a well worn and aging monument to those slaughtered at Wounded Knee. A circle of “gifts” honoring the fallen was before the monument. The overgrown cemetery where tribal members have been buried throughout the years was also a sombre experience. I drove to the top of one of the highest hills and just gazed upon this land with a heavy heart. I tried to imagine what it must have been like back in the days when the native Americans were constantly routed from their native lands. In driving through the entire reservation area I observed that there was very little evidence of wealth but most areas appeared relatively impoverished and homes mostly manufactured and of small size.

It was time to journey onto Grizzly Creek Campground in the Black Hill near the town of Keystone – another one of the gaudy tourist trap towns to encourage people to buy more and more stuff that they don’t need but just have to have—- now I must admit that I too succumb to this “need” which is now focused on a T-shirt and patch from every national park. And for those of you who know my history I have enough T-shirts to wear a clean one every day for a year probably. Clearly this is a want but not a need!!

We arrived at the campground under a very threatening sky. I had just got out of the car and let the dogs out when immediately a strong wind blew in followed by driving rain and pelting hail. This was a fitting finale for a somber day. We just about dove back into the car and had a somewhat nerve-wracking hour waiting to be able to set up camp. Kili is petrified of storms and trembling, so his needing to be close to me didn’t make for it to be easier. I tried a phone call but the reception was so variable, it was a conversation of frustration! But finally it settled down to a very light drizzle so I opted to at least get the tent set up. Thank goodness I had my emergency $1.00 rain poncho handy. When it started up again I grabbed the ground cloth to cover up the tent so hopefully I would not be inside a soaked piece of nylon and netting. Here again, not thinking it through the bottom of the cloth was laden with dirt and now the slightly damp tent was dusted with dirt which i foresaw dusting me in the night as it dried and the winds blew. But the set-up eventually happened and I am so glad it is summer and light late so as not to have to negotiate everything in the dark.

 

I was wondering if i would be as astonished by the geological formations going into the South Unit or if after a while it begins to all blend together in a sameness. And though there are similarities in all of the Badlands there are enough differences to continue to make my heart sing with awe and my eyes pop at every turn. Cannonballs, spires, buttes, painted canyons, prairie dog towns are all eye candy but the most fun of all was encounters with the bison. On both occasion I had my car between me and those mammoth creatures. I turned into the road leading to Cottonwood camp and barreling on down the road directly at me was a mammoth bison. Decided to just stop dead and thank goodness he veered around me but it sure got the adrenaline pumping and Kill in a barking uproar. Couldn’t even think to get the camera. But even more exciting was finding myself with a few other cars surrounded by a bison herd on the move right down the middle of the road. Given the multitude of signs all over the park warning about the dangers of the bison, even I opted to take the safe approach and stayed in my car! Though it was a tad tempting to get up close and personal!

I opted for the loop drive and even though I still longed to be pounding the sandstone with my boots, I still thoroughly appreciated the many jaw-dropping vistas of eroded sandstone. There is so much incredible natural beauty in this world that it would be tragic not to make every effort to keep these magnificent parkland as pristine as possible. As I gaze at the many bumps, piles, buttes, bluffs, canyons, spires, jagged outcroppings, table tops, plateaus, castles and much more, I feel so much more peace within myself, my soul soars, and I feel more harmonious with the world. Back in Medora, the gateway town, it was time to face the real world again. A warning light kept flickering on but it definitely did not announce what was wrong. But my hunch was it might be low on oil as I had a similar occurrence on last years ventures while crossing the planes and climbing the mountains. I checked the oil stick and couldn’t read any oil on it so I found the closest auto parts store, as the local gas and convenient store in Medora did not carry the weight of oil I needed. So three quarts of oil later, with my destination about 200 miles down the rode, I pushed on and I decided I would be getting to know the folks at the Toyota Dealer in Rapid City. The drive was pleasant as there was not a lot of traffic or trucks on the highway.

 

I experience another one of those moment when rounding a corner, I found myself dropped into an entirely different world of mountains and forest, towering pines and steep grades after the low rolling flat of the grasslands and desert scales. The scenic route (remember those dots in the map) was the opted for route and it wound me through forest and cute little western motif tourist trap town with the t-shirt store, western bars, fudge shops, thrill rides, and of course motel after motel. Even the store fronts were gaudy. I sometimes ponder why when we have a unique area such as Mt. Rushmore, New Orleans Bourbon Street, Gatlingburg, Tennessee that it can’t be left in its own unique state but has to be junked up with so many other attractions that have nothing to do with the original draw of the unique he destination. So finally two hundred miles down the road was Hot Springs, South Dakota and a motel for the night. I had asked for a room with one Queen bed and ground floor because I had pets. The room I requested said the motel operator was n the third floor. Of course I was at the far end of the hall from the elevators. But to wanting to waste energy on grousing about it, I maneuvered all out stuff on a cart and crowded in the elevator and up we went. The dogs were quite perplexed and what a pain in the butt it is to have to do the elevator routine to take them out to pee.

The only drawback I can find with camping in National Parks and National Forests is the lack or interconnectivity via cell or wi-fi. On one hand it is great to get away from it all but on the other hand I love sharing my adventures with family and friends. So I have been in the Dakota’s for 4 days and will start to share my journey into this previously unknown territory to me. I broke camp and “barreled” out of the Chippewa National Forest in “record breaking time.” It only took me an hour and fifteen minutes to break camp, that is after I was dressed, had breakfast and the dogs were already fed. It take’s me a lot of time to moving things from place to place as my mind wanders all over  but mostly about what the adventure of the day would be. The challenge I am about ready to embrace is practicing MINDFULNESS: the buzz word in mental health counseling and New Age circles. Yes, I have talked to my clients about it but certainly did not recognize a great need to engage in the thoughtful practice of it. After all, it is much more challenge to be constantly searching for everything I put wherever it is not supposed to be and definitely not in its designated spot. But after constantly searching for items and loosing items ($$$$) it definitely is something I need to focus on. Perhaps tomorrow.

Soon the forest and lakes gave way to mildly rolling farmland and the miles clicked by steadily. I had planned a 350 mile day to make this day’s trip akin to the last weeks of training before an Ironman race. i.e. just putting in the miles. It would be around 470 miles to Theodore Roosevelt National Park (North Unit) and I did not want to yet again be in a race with the setting sun to get settled for the night so I opted to plan to stay in Minot, North Dakota. With traffic light and the weather turning nicer as I headed west, I anticipated an easy drive on cruise control and made a very strong effort at behaving myself and not going much over the speed limit (say 3-4 miles). I sure felt like I was an old geezer crawling along at 65. But I can honestly say it is more relaxing not trying to guess if there would be a cop or a speed trap up ahead. Though the basic landscapes did not change significantly from farmland, I was entering into an area of ranches and grassslands. Soon though, I began to notice, once into North Dakota, an occasional oil pump churning away and some oil storage tanks and the further into the state the density increased. This I guessed was the fracking operations that I have read a lot about. The fact that they are drilling there I figured didn’t affect me until I also began to notice a significant increase in the number of oil tanker truck tearing down the highway. The drive soon became very unpleasant. I had made a reservation at the La Quinta in Minot and the whole surrounding area I was in was all new construction, I am sure fueled by the fracking operations. I took this opportunity when in town to get a moderately priced point-and-shoot camera to replace my beloved Olympus and then on to the motel. Kili and Simba were ecstatic to see the beds as I have definitely noticed that they do not have the same passion for camping that I do. They looked so handsome on the lovely white sheets that they were overjoyed to be rolling on! I must say I really didn’t mind a nice room, bed and shower. I am fortunate that they don’t complain about the lack of showering (due to lack of campground showers) over the last few days. But then I don’t complain about their wet dog smell either. We nestled in for the night and were soon found asleep.

Checking out of a hotel motel is sure a lot easier that breaking camp. I guess when I compare the two for most people it would be a no brainer. Hotel or motor home. But I shall keep that Girl Scout inside me happy and toil away at the set up and take down. Most individuals would probably not understand the sense of personal accomplishment I get from it. So after a 10 minute get the luggage down and into the car event, the dogs hooked up and bill paid I was off to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, sandwiched in between the oil tankers , observing the drilling, pumping and hauling of oil. When getting close to the park there was a sign for scenic look-out. Upon rounding a curve , spreading out for miles below was the rugged beauty of the badlands! It was like dropping into a different world in just a few seconds. With all that extra time I had not breaking camp I found myself at the Park Entrance by 11:00 am. I decided to camp there at Juniper Campground (I am sure you can guess what trees proliferate in the area) rather than take a quick drive through and then off to the South Unit which I anticipated would be much more crowded, as it is directly accessed by an interstate! I took a shaded site just above the Little Missouri. I now have a much better understanding now of why if one backcountry hikes or backpacks , one must bring their own water! I think the Little Missouri River is aptly named, though I am sure this is not the reason — it carries very little water. I observed mostly sandbars with rivulets of water interspersed amongst them. Clearly not a reliable water source as it is still June and the heat of summer is yet to come.

I have always been awestruck by the beauty of the west with all of its red rock, buttes, cones, spires, etc. but what seemed to stand out here was the definite strands of blue-gray which I learned is Bentonite Clay and a hallmark defining the badlands. Many areas appeared to be desert but there are also many areas that seemed lush.

I think the most disappointing thing for me is not being able to hike any of the trails that thread through all of the wonder formations. Traveling with dogs has definitely changed the way I get to experience the National Parks. Dogs are not allowed on any trails in the National Parks. Though my first choice would be to backpack into the backcountry, I have come to accept that at least for now that I will be experiencing the splendor of the parks from the numerous vista points. So I did the 14 mile drive out stopping at most of the overlooks and this too can be awe inspiring. I am sure my two fur buddies don’t quite get why I keep hopping in and out of the car ever few minutes and then we are off until the next go round. Viewing this broken topography of eroded sandstone, grassy planes, cottonwood oases on the Little Missouri and all of the many hues of the landscape is deeply satisfying and quite spiritual. It really brings home the feeling of being a minute grain of sand at a very brief nanosecond in time, in a landscape whose geological formation has evolved over millions of years. Returning to the campground, we had a peaceful late afternoon and evening under the juniper and cottonwood trees overlooking the Little Missouri.

Having moteled it for an unscheduled night we broke camp after only one night and headed down to the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt NP and the gateway town of Medora. As I was low on gas I inquired of the closet gas station. So 15 miles down the road I found a quaint old dilapidated store/gas pump with I think the original pump and Old Standards Oil sign. Of course the price was high so I pumped $7.00 worth and went into pay. To my surprise the old relic of a gent tending his store fumbled with it and he moved as slow as molasses and was of few word and a tad unpleasant in manner. I was quite eager to move on though it could have been the perfect setting to strike up a conversation with a local. So onward south and, much to my relief, there were almost no more oil pumps, storage tanks or rigs but a very pleasant drive through grasslands and ranches with various pastures of varying shades of green and bales and bales of hay through out.