Uniquely Theo

Tasia and Amara took the airport shuttle to Denver International so I did not have to pile the dogs in the car at 4:30 am.  I felt quite sad to see them going even though I would be seeing them in about a week in Oregon. I am good with doing things by myself but it is so much better when one shares experienced with kindred souls. We made it through ten days of challenging circumstances and there were relatively few skirmishes and we are all still ”best buds.” My daughter Tasia is an amazing woman. She is so kind, patient , helpful, smart, creative, inquisitive, artistic — she was there the whole time to help me, her daughter and the two dogs when needed. She has the stamina of a pair of oxen and more than once hoisted my pack up a difficult ascent when I was just about out of gas! She was so patient with her daughter Amara who was a real trooper but would peter out at just about the same time I would. She carried  Simba, aka “Tiny”Dog on numerous occasions and also hoisted 22 lb. Kili for about a mile when he could no longer walk. Kudos to Tasia for making these ten days a wonderful 3 generation backpacking and hiking trip.

I finally got myself organized enough to take off about 9:45 am. The car was in total disarray but as long as the stuff fit in I was not going to address the chaos of stuff yet. My last task was to get the free breakfast so I put the dogs in the car and went down to get a plate. The checkin clerk told me breakfast was from 5 am -10am Well there was NO Food!!! It was over at nine!!! I was mostly ticked because I had hoped to get some sausage and eggs to feed my poor skinny dog with no appetite. I instructed Siri to take me out of Denver using no major highways so we set off on a slow drive across town, enjoying some industrial sections, some lower income neighborhoods, driving right through the middle of downtown and then out onto some very scenic roller coaster hills, corkscrew ascents, hairpin turns, and marvelous vista roads. I was headed to Dinosaur National Monument and it was to be a 350 mile 9 hour adventure. The variety of environments was quite astonishing. I traversed through high forested mountains, lower altitude undulating mountains and hills, several upscale ski resort western style towns, some older small decaying towns, and a lot of what appear to be very inhospitable rolling arid land covered with sage brush and juniper. You know you are in the middle of nowhere the you see signs announcing that there are no services or gas for 57 miles. At the end of that 57 miles is a decaying town with perhaps only one operating business in the form of the local Conoco or the Kum and Go. As time went on I was not at all worried about getting a campsite on the Green River as I could not imagine flocks of people descending on this rather god forsaken area. So around 5:00 pm I entered Dinasaur National Monument. The area had changed rapidly as I approached and it was the beginning of some breathtaking lands. But at this point I opted to head straight for the campground and selected a sight (75) backing up to the Green River .

Now I was faced with the challenge of finding my car camping tent as I refused to spend another night fighting with the dogs for my space in the not so roomy backpacking tent. I was warned about it getting hot in this area and it was not to disappoint at a toasty 91 degrees at 7:30 pm. Of course all the car camping apparatus was in the carrier, stored away to make way for the backpacks down below. I managed to get it all squared away by dark at which point i was just finishing my dinner! But all was well inside. I felt a lot of joy, satisfaction and peace. I was in a beautiful area, I could hear he rushing of the water from the Green River, the dogs and I were both well and well fed….all of which bring an inner peace. After so many cold nights in the mountains, I was NOT going to complain about the heat — though I must admit it felt quite sticky and sweaty. Sitting in the quiet I could gaze at a spectacular array of stars while listening to the barking of coyote in the distance. I couldn’t ask for more.

I awoke around 7:00 to a sense of being baked in an oven as the sun was already heating up the new day and already was in full force intending to slowly bake me in my tent. Emerging, well rested, I took stock. It was a beautiful morning but I knew that my campsite would be in the fullpath of the sun for the entire day and we would be kiln dried by the time it would retreat behind the ridge around 7;30. This site was nice and shady the evening before at 7:30. But I had planned on car-treking for the day, going back to the Colorado Dinosaur National Monument Canyon Entrance. I wasn’t sure what that would hold as it had no fossil sites of dinosaurs museum. It was a 31 mile road cutting across sagebrush plateaus with many pullout at the rim of sheer-walled canyons. It turned out to be a superlative decision and the drive was stupendous. The further in and with altitude increasing the sandstone and other rock formations became more and more intriguing and colorful. To amuse myself further I kept “seeing” dinosaur shapes in the rock formations. With the striations and sworls all about, here again this area had it’s own unique character.

The dogs are very patient with my car trekking which involved hopping in and out to drink in each new astonishing   vista. I am so grateful for digital photography as I take tons of pictures so I will be able to lock some of the images into the gray matter of my aging brain. Though I did not have the place to myself, there were so few people and cars out there that there was a lot of solitude to just soak in the beauty of this earth. At the end of the Canyon road there was a two mile round trip Harper’s Corner Trail, a hike that was touted as a way to cap off an already amazing experience. It was high noon but I knew it was partially shaded. The temperature was 79 degrees. So I set out with the dogs. Yes, the ranger said this trail was dog friendly, one of only 3 trails so far I have found in a National Park that permits dogs. (though with the heat and 7580’ altitude, I didn’t work out to be too friendly for them or me). But with plenty of water and treats and stopping each 1/2 mile to replenish we had a wonderful hike along a rock cliff, jutting out like a promontory. There were amazing views of the Green and Yampa Rivers and their bench lands, cutting their way through brilliant red rock canyon. The Green River is truly a very rich green when viewed from above. Poor little Simba was panting so hard that I could here his heart thumping so I would pick him up and carry him a ways. But he kept trudging on at a pace I did not want to keep up. We took lots of cooling time in the shade. By the time we finished the temperature was 91 degrees.

 

We were headed back to the Quarry Entrance but first an ice and firewood stop. This meant stopping in the town Dinosaur, Colorado and I spent a bit of time observing how this town appears to be on its way to extinction as well. The only two businesses that appeared to be left were two gas stations/convenience stores. The rest were boarded up shuttered motels, several old rusted car and truck cemeteries. I find it very sad to see such decaying of these towns. There may have been only 2-3 business that looked like they were functioning.  I kept posing the question to myself: Will the town of Dinosaur Colorado, the gateway to Dinosaur National Monument soon be extinct?

I find it quite amusing that I am complaining about the heat and yet stopping to buy firewood so I can have a campfire. So I high tailed it back to the Fossil Entrance and did the Split Mountain Drive. This whole section is beautiful in a slightly different way. Because of the heat and the dogs I wasn’t able to visit any of the fossil sites, museum and petroglyphs but the experiencing the amazing formations of Tilted Rocks and Split Mountain on the Cub Creek Road was more than satisfying.

 

After a routine swift meal we enjoyed a leisurely walk along the Green River and I dipped my arms, feet, and legs in to wash of the top layer of grime that naturally accumulates when moving about a dirt and sand campsite and of course is even more of a delight when one adds sun screen and bug spray to the mix. The stars and coyotes were as delightful the second night.

 

I awoke to a chilly 39 degree morning and could barely wait to get into my hot cup of S’Buck’s Via. After a very efficient break down of camp we headed on up towards Independence Pass and had planned one more hike before we left the area. The Linkens Lake Trail was our choice as it would be mostly above tree line with about 500 feet of elevation. It was a true gem. It was a steep short rocky hike of 1.7 miles and the 360 degrees views were stunning. It starts by Roaring Fork River and enters the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness Area (like that name) before ascending on a non-technical but an aggressive incline. Wildflowers, waterfalls, along the way and Lake Linkens at the end are beautiful.

Linkins Lake (elevation 12,008’) is what is called an alpine tarn. Jewel green in color and crystal clear, it is surrounded by fragile wildflowers, grasses, and lichen. The ground around was quite spongy so we treaded carefully and lightly. Being above tree line the view is of windswept expanses of mountain faces bordering the Continental Divide.

This, followed by the spectacular drive along the 12,005-foot Independence Pass, was a grande finale for our days of hiking. Enroute to Boulder and Longmont we took the scenic Peak to Peak Highway and were marveling at the rich beauty and ruggedness of the area when we rounded a corner and were thrust into the high stakes towns of Central City and Black Hawk. These two towns are in Clear Creek Canyon and are extensive gaming venues with rows of bustling casinos lining the road through this relatively narrow canyon. Just as quickly we were out of the casino row and back into undeveloped Rocky Mountain terrain. The week-end was quite a change of pace: real beds with clean sheets, a shower, carry-out meals, a time for regrouping, laundry, visiting with Amara’s Aunt Amy, a lovely walk up in the mountains though a relatively new growth forest, Sunday brunch, getting caught up on email. and beginning to formulate a travel plan for the rest of the drive west to Oregon. We headed to the LaQuinta by Denver Airport in the late afternoon for Tasia’s and Amara’s early Monday morning departure.

We awoke to a blue sky spotted with wispy cottony cumulus cloud puffs which may well have portended the massive dense bulging mounds and towers of the cumulonimbus thunderstorm clouds of the afternoon. Given our disappointment of having to opt out of the Four Pass Loop Hike, we chose a day hike up to Crater Lake, a portion of the first section (or last depending in whether one chooses to hike clockwise to counterclockwise) of the trail leading up to Maroon Pass. I am very glad we did it but still disappointed that it was not feasible for us at this time. This area outside of Aspen has been so popular over the years that vehicle restrictions were implemented so we, gladly as well as by necessity took the Maroon Bells Bus Tour to Maroon Lake (9580’). This is definitely advantageous for the environment but the driver/guide also provided us with significant information about the area.

The Crater Lake trail (3.6 round trip) is a steep and especially towards the end, a very rocky pathway, as one is climbing an ancient rockslide the created Crater Lake. Given the accessibility of the trail, the solitude that I seek that often accompanies hiking was difficult to achieve. But I am always so happy to see families especially out hiking with their children, that acceptance of what is the NOW brings satisfaction in a different way. The trail was boulder strewn and rough going. Kili was not very happy about this hike and he kept looking back and trying to go back. It became a drag the dog up the trail event. The heavy and dense storm clouds had rolled in and the cool drizzle began about three quarters of the way up. The drizzle increased its intensity and I finally caught up with Tasia and Amara who were, yet again, crouched under their ponchos in the woods.

We opted to have lunch after we hike out so I began to head back down while Tasia and Amara did a bit more exploring before they headed out. Kili was like a new “man.” He was staining at the leash and it was smooth sailing. The most fascinating person I saw on the trail was a young woman in 4-5 inch platform sandals carry a shopping bag with a bottle of wine to enjoy at the lake. I cannot even imagine her making it up and then back without a broken ankle or leg. I was being so cautious with every step, especially with the wet rocks and mud. Lunch was sitting on the shores of lovely Maroon Lake, enjoying the wildflowers and mirror images on the lake.

Back in town with a cell signal we made only the necessary texts and phone calls and were back through substantial rain to Lost Mans Camp. By some miracle just a bit short of the camp it was not raining. However a very damp chill 50 degrees was not conducive to sitting around outside (as if the tents weren’t the outside). Being impatient, we ate our bags of crispy noodles and back beans and rice, and were in the tents by eight. That way we did not have to deal with rain or flies and mosquitos if the presented themselves. There was a bit of sadness on my part because this was to be the last camping night with Tasia and Amara as we would be heading into Boulder and Longmont for the week-end to spend some time with Amara’s Aunt Amy (her father Stephen’s sister) and be in motels. Then it would be off to Denver Airport on Monday morning for Tasia and Amara’s return flights to Oregon.

A great way to wake up in the morning, even more bracing than a strong cup of coffee, was a cleansing of the lower body in Prince Creek. It was just the right depth to sit in BRIEFLY! I was going on the assumption that the frigid water would paralyze any of the bacterial culprits causing body odors and they would just fall off and no longer be able to hang out and create odor. So I then numbly ate my oatmeal and we broke camp. We got the backpacks ready for an overnight out-and-back to Thomas Lakes which is situated in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness in the Elk Range. We had chosen it given it was short very doable distance of 2.3 miles. Now this may seem almost laughable to a long distance thru hiker but given we were hiking with a sick dog, at times needing to be carried, my altitude sickness kicking inn, and Amara’s altitude headaches etc. it seems like a very viable choice for this trekking crew. It had only about 1600 feet of elevation, starting at 8600’ and campsites at around 10, 284’. Now I am beginning to realize that initial descriptions of trails are by no means on target. I have yet to do a hike where the mileage is right on its stated distance. The description stated this trail was 2.3 miles BUT my Garmin read 4.1 at our destination. We discovered that often the trailhead is NOT where one starts hiking a specific trail, but up where perhaps your destination branches of from another trail, at which point you are starting at 0. The same thing occurred on the Oh Be Joyful trek where we clocked in at 7.25 miles but according to the trail guide we would have been at Blue Lake (which we never got to) at 6.5. But I digress.
Needless to say our anticipation of a relatively easy to moderate hike did not exactly bear true. The altitude again was knocking the wind out of me. It felt somewhat akin to a moderate hangover, which is a bummer because my drinking days are long gone and I did all the right things to get ready for this trip. The trail itself was a moderate grade and relatively easy to negotiate initially. It ascended through a forest of aspen and oak and there were excellent views of the Elk Mountains in the distance. It slowly climbed, with expansive views of pastures and extensive fields and slopes of wildflowers and views of the Roaring Fork Valley. It was breathtaking. I was very happy taking my time one small step after the other and then a pause to drink in the scenery and of course take more than a few pictures.

 

The build up of the thunder heads was early this day as we had good views of Mount Sopris which was now draped in ominous black thunder storm clouds. We had put the rain covers on our packs at the start thank goodness. At about the point I thought we were almost there (still unaware that the distances didn’t start until we 1.8 miles in) it began to rain, and then continued to rain harder and harder. So we hauled out the rain ponchos and hunkered down in the woods perched on some boulders. I managed to get Kilt onto my lap under the poncho, a very challenging task given he had no clue as to what I was attempting to do and seemed to be fighting even though he was already quite rain-soaked. Simba looked like a very large drowned rat. It finally let up after about 15 minutes and we meandered on with the sun coming out intermittently.

 

We continued through groves of aspen and evergreen interspersed with meadows. The wildflowers continued to be prodigious and stunning so we spent a lot of time viewing and photographing them.Soon the trail became noticeably rockier and now was a rocky, rubbly high county trail of broken rock debris, more forested with fewer vistas. I can only think of the term talus to describe the path. It’s seemed that all the talus that has broken off of the mountains and adjacent cliffs was piled up to make the trail difficult, though most likely this was a naturally occurring process. The pieces of talus were of all sizes from tiny to huge boulders, or anywhere in between. I wasn’t scrambling or boulder hopping (would that I could) but was picking my way over the rocks to find firm footing, as some rocks would be loosely planted. I knew it would be easy to miss a step or twist an ankle or worse. It required a lot of focus in the midst of huffing and puffing. It was slow slow going and the distance of a mile felt like two or three.

We passed the first smaller emerald green Thomas Lake and knew we were only about .3 mile to the other Thomas Lake. The campsite is nestled beneath the twin peaks of Mt. Sopris just above the second Thomas Lake. It is a stunningly gorgeous emerald green timber lined lake. It was quiet and secluded at this point and it seemed like we were situated in a bowl, surrounded by lesser peaks across Thomas Lake which completed the circle. We chose campsite #2 as it was not too far down to the lake for resupplying our water. There were a couple large flat boulders which made great tables to prep and eat lunch and afterwards we set up camp, including for the first time an ultimate and safe wilderness hanging of the Ursack, our bulletproof Spectra fabric white bear bag. It was at least 20 feet up and out on a limb!!! That left us the afternoon to relax by this beautiful little mountain lake, read, ponder, and wade in the very cold bouldered bottom lake. It was a fun challenge stepping around onto boulders on the lake bottom – seeing if they were firmly planted, slick with algae, flat enough to step on and not tip me in for a shockingly cold dip.

Rain threatened off and on during the afternoon and dinner time brought a thunder shower. When the rain broke we quickly got the Jet Boil going for our “gourmet” bagged meals which I so lovingly created prior to this trip. Out biggest problem was impatience, not waiting long enough for the water to fully absorb so instead of pasta or rice a la dente we had many very crunchy rice and pasta meals! But often impatience was fueled by the threatening storms. Today was no exception because we soon needed to retreat to our tents due to more rain and the visitation of the dinner hour flies and mosquitos.
When trying to nod off around nine, all of a sudden there was a loud thunderous noise and it seemed like a very large loud bulldozer was going to come tearing through, massacring the forest and our campsite. Needless to say we were quite startled. When quiet fell upon us, we were able to deduce it was a large rockslide on one of the mountains encircling the lake. It definitely put me on edge a little, not knowing how close it was to us, but I wasn’t going to pack up my tent and hike out in the dark. That would be sure disaster. I heard two more lesser slides during the night.
The adventures of the night didn’t stop with the rockslide though. It continued to rain and rain. When it rains on the tent it is hard to tell how hard the rain is. It seems to magnify the intensity. But I had to pee badly and I had kept putting it off. But finally I had no choice by 1:00 am. I kept trying to fiddle with my rain cape and put it on but failed miserably. So I finally just climbed out and stepped in a “lake” of water up to my ankles My tent was sitting in a shallow lake. So after completing the task, I crawled back into the tent and had to strip off my soaked socks and pants as the legs were sopping. I finally was back in my bag and asleep by two, praying for no more adventures that night!
Though we had brought enough food to stay and extra day we opted for the hike out as everything was a wet muddy mess and covered with dirt, leaves, pine needles. There was no hope of drying things out as it dawned a chilly 50 degrees and was quite cloudy. The trail was somewhat muddy and slick in spots but surprisingly better than I anticipated. Before we left we were able to pin point where the thunderous rockslide was the night before. Everything had a different look now with the dark, threatening clouds and it had an entirely different beauty. One of Tasia’s challenges with Amara, to add to the enjoyment of the hike, was to find and photograph what looked like faces in the rocks, tree trunks, flowers etc. It was quite fun way to be more aware of so much of what we often do not pay attention to in our surroundings. Can you see the faces?

 

Fortunately we didn’t have to dive under our rain ponchos as we hiked out. I think a lot about what it must have been like for the pioneers of our country in their traverse to the West. I am hiking with great lightweight high tech equipment and still it can get quite uncomfortable. But hundreds of years ago with the conestoga wagons and everything that needed transporting being quite heavy, how incredibly arduous it must have been. I doubt they had time to enjoy the delicacy of the wildflowers. insects or a raindrop on a leaf.

 

Once back to the car, the next challenge would be finding a campsite in the Aspen area, not an easy task in the high season. A visit to the USFS Office in Carbondale revealed that there was no dispersed camping in the Aspen area as it was all private land and our best bet would be to head out east to a couple of National Forest Service Campgrounds up towards Independence Pass that don’t allow advanced reservation. We began to feel discouraged as the first one was full but a few miles up the road we came to Lost Man USFS Campground which was basically empty. We of course hurried the set-up as the regular afternoon storming was looming and it did not disappoint. Kili got soaked and then jumped into the tent, muddied feet of course, and walked and rolled on my sleeping bag. That is one thing every hiker and backpacker wants to keep dry at all cost – the sleeping envelope! When the rain let up Tasia managed to string one of my tarps up over the picnic table to have a dry place to eat our yet again JetBoil bagged meals! However, it is a good thing because I can’t imagine trying to prepare a gourmet meal in the drizzle. Would be quite a watery diluted menu. Rain forced us back into the tents by 7:30 for the night.