The next dawn was a moving on day. I was heading to Laramie, Wyoming for a shower and real bed. But I impulsively opted to head north first to visit Devils Tower National Monument which added 3.5 to 4 hours of driving. Spectacular is an apt word to describe it mostly because it looms on the horizon and seems to rise out of the earth in columns (or marks of the claw in Kiowa tradition) in the midst of rolling plains and grasslands. This is such an imposing and prominent butte, though more than likely it is the remnants of a much larger land mass that eroded away. It had not occurred to me when I made the impulsive decision, that so many people would head all that way out there into what seems the middle of nowhere to see a monolith. But then I was doing exactly the same thing. I had not considered it being a 4 day holiday replete with national holiday crowds and found myself in a long line of cars waiting to get through the gate. Fortunately I found a nice shady parking space and the day was not too warm to leave the dogs in the car. I was able to take the time to do the 1.3 mile Tower Trail circumventing the tower. My thanks and gratitude again to President Theodore Roosevelt for designating it the first national monument.

I was back on the road after an enjoyable experience and headed down to Laramie Wyoming without incident. “Not-So Pretty Priss” was quite happy with my new found respect for her and not pushing her to the limit with my lead foot. And even I am very much enjoying the more relaxed pace. I had hoped to get into Laramie early but the sun was setting by the time I was very close to the motel. I could see it across the way but could not get there. The bridge Siri re-directed me too was CLOSED and she would not give me any alternate directions. SO I called the motel and finally had the route only to turn just before the drive onto the Interstate . So then I had to drive several miles up and back to get there after dark The only redeeming factor the sky was ablaze in oranges and yellow. As per usual the guys were ecstatic and I was ok with not being a odiferous pioneer woman for another night. So I got out all the cords and set about charging my computer, iPad, iPhone, Garmin, camera battery, flashlight, FitBit, electric toothbrush… Crazy! But I am not about to forsake any of them.
Today July 2nd was a day when my feelings were all over the place as it was the one year anniversary of the death of my dearest friend and housemate Ramona. Waves of sadness would wash over me but I I was also excited as I was heading out of Wyoming and into the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. In a few days I would be hiking the Maroon Bells, a very special place for Ramona who completed an Outward Bound in that area. I think about that day one year ago, holding her hand as she took her final breaths and how she was so filled with grace and anticipation to finally be going to her Lord. I doubt I could face my own death with such courage and faith.

I left the motel Laramie Wyoming about 11:30, did a quick trip to the grocery and got gas and was off to the Big Creeks Lake campground in Colorado, another National Forest Service non- electric, non-shower, spigot water and vault toilet spa. I had made the reservation online and from the picture it look beautiful. I knew it was close to the area I wanted to be and as it was the 4th of July week-end reservable camping spots in Colorado were few and far between. I saw that Siri said it was 80 miles ,but time wise a couple hours, so I finally had a clue that it was going to be a ways off the beaten path. I was up for the adventure. I became even more sure when I saw I would be turning onto both county and the forest service roads. After just a few miles out of Cowdry (population 10 I think) , the pavement ended and off I went on a teeth jarring washboard gravel road winding hither and yon into the mountains. But it became more interesting as there were cows free ranging in the area and hanging out on the road. Once I negotiate my way through the cows there were several dear charging up the road, darting into the woods, darting back across the road. You bet I crawled along that road from that point on. Would surprise me if i got a few more cracks in the windshield.

The next morning dawned early again. It does get a tad chilly at night but then 50-52 degree feels cold to this Florida gal. But the goal for this day was multifold: a trip to the Badlands National Park , SD and then an appointment for “Pretty Priss” at Toyota to see what ails her. Seems like she is spitting oil into the pistons, or at least that is my best recollection of what the service rep told me. So down the road she may need an engine job or perhaps find a new owner. But in the short run I just intend to feed her a quart of oil here and there as needed…and treat her more gently and not make her do 80 up the mountain highways. Now the speed in Wyoming on the highways is 80 and even if it was legal, I am choosing to be more moderate in my driving She also got a new headlamp. On the downside a lovely crack appeared in her windshield which I noticed a couple minutes after her visit to Toyota. It is interesting how it wasn’t there when I took her in. Naturally I went back but the manger proceeded to point out all the little dings in my windshield and thus they had no responsibility. He claimed that changing the spark plugs and headlamp wouldn’t cause that. Another bummer. So right now she is cracked, scratched and dirty and spitting oil.

But I am getting ahead of myself. We headed off first to the South Dakota Badlands National Park (North Unit). It was a hefty drive to plan, see the park and be back to rapid City by one o’clock but I took the scenic route all the way. The topography through all these vast badlands of both North and South Dakota is amazing The palette of colors, shades and shadows of the peaks, gullies, buttes, and the rolling hills and prairies must certainly be the inspiration for Crayola’s 120 colors of crayons. I don’t believe that any artist could adequately replicate in any medium the grander of the Master Designer of the Universe. The Yellow Mounds here are truly stunning and unique and no French Fashion Designer in their draping of materials on models would be able to come close to replicating the fold, hues, shadows, the shifting and shimmering, the blending of color that blankets this area and the badlands in its entirety. Since I was only experiencing this harsh inhospitable land from the vistas, I still yearn for the opportunity to experience that wilderness in its harshness. Even from a vista point I could get a sense of the ethereal and spiritual in its vastness and diversity. It is hard to imagine this land has supported human life for thousands of years. I was disappointed to have so little time to explore this land but a major thunderstorm was fast approaching as I was about to leave the park. I hope one day I will be able to hike this land and tread where the Lakota tried for many years.

So back to the not very satisfactory Rapid City experience. I still had some grocery shopping to do and needed to find a laundromat, return the camera I bought that I hated to Target, and go to Best Buy to get the same camera that I lost, as I had liked it so much. Well, Siri took me to the closest laundromat but guess she never got the word. It turned out to be a pawn shop. Wonder if they got started with folks pawning their laundry. There actually had been one there, but the friendly owner directed me to Laundry World. It was quite nice and not at all crowded. So I put the smokey foul smelling clothes in the washer and went to find a grocery store. I asked two people and Siri where the closest grocery store was. All roads led to Walmart. Any one who knows me, knows that I will only shop at Walmart under extreme duress but this was the time for sure. And as anticipated it was a big mass chaotic experience. I was primarily looking for cans of my beloved plain club soda. Well there was flavored club sodas but no plain ones. I even went to the liquor section looking for the small pricey Schweppes or Canada Dry glass bottles but they don’t cary this. They had little small plastic 8 oz store brand bottles or their large 32 oz plastic bottle which are a sure recipe for club soda to go flat quickly. Desperate, I settled on their little 8 oz bottles, got my lunch fixings and was out of there. I hurried back to switch the laundry to the drier. There here was a Pizza Hut next door and it was already around 6:30 pm. I order the dogs and I a pizza. That was about the only sweet moment of the afternoon. They were so happy with their pizza. Finally with a mostly fixed car, a new camera, clean clothes, and some Walmart club soda, we were very very happy to be back at out little tent home in the grizzly campground with no grizzlies.

 

It was time for a down day or one that involved less crowds and driving. I found an interesting loop hike for the dogs and myself to do. It was called the Iron Mountain Loop Hike in the Peter Norbek Wildlife Preserve. It was accessed off of 16A , an engineering marvel at the time, designed by Peter Norbek. It is 17 miles, 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, 3 corkscrew spirals aka Pigtail Bridges, 3 tunnels and was great exhilarating fun to drive. The hike took us into the Black Elk Wilderness in the Black Hills National Forest.

The most challenging and remarkable ting about this hike was the deadfall. There were so many downed trees that the trail keepers apparently could not keep up with the humungous felled trees over the trail. We negotiated the obstacle course quite adroitly and kept crossing grizzly creek – have yet to see a grizzly. The dogs are in training for their upcoming hike of the Maroon Bells so this 6.5 mile hike was a good test of their stamina. We got out of there without being crushed by a falling tree — I think if had been windy I might have opted not to hike. There are bright warning signs regarding the state of the forest which has been so ravage by the Pine Bark Beetle. I had thought about doing the Needle Way Scenic Drive but was NOT drawn to be heading towards the towns of DeadwooD and Lead. There was no grande finale for the day but just a relaxing time in camp and of course the compulsory campfire. The dogs just don’t get the campfire habit when camping – they retreat to the tent and climb in their beds!

I was awake at 5:30 and feigned sleep until six so the dogs wouldn’t get up and I would not have to crawl out of the tent too soon on this chilly morning. In that I had decided to visit Mount Rushmore today I was glad that we could get an early start as I would have to leave the dogs in the car and had no idea if there was any shade and what the days temps would be later on. Well I did not need to worry about that. Much to my dismay and I must admit disgust there was a parking garage and a ten dollar parking fee. Actually there were four good sized three story garages. So I was relieved to be able to leave the car in the lower story and not have to worry about the sun and heat. But somehow this commercial enterprise bothers me . There was no other place anywhere near to park so everyone gets stuck if they want to see this magnificent monument. Never-the-less I am truly inspired by this sculpture commemorating the grandeur of the monumental legacy of four great American Presidents: Washington, Lincoln, Theodore Roosevelt, Abraham Lincoln. I certainly have no idea what the monument was like before the introduction of the garage, terraces, Avenue of Flags, amphitheater, and light show but somehow with so much development around I find it detracts from the sculpture itself. In my mind it could stand alone as the attraction. It was certainly good to reflect up the contributions of these great men to our democracy, equality and preservation of our land.

Right across the street I found a wonderful dog friendly trail. The Blackberry Trail took us down into a wooded canyon and connected up with the Centennial Trail. Since there was not another human out there (with the throngs of humans a stones throw across the road) I let the dogs run free. Happy, happy dogs. It was quite the treat for them since they have had to put up with hours and days worth of my not very dog friendly activities. I had planned to do couple miles on the Centennial Trail, a hiking trail that runs north to south through the Black Forest, but after the wild wind storm and rain the previous night it was a wet muddy mess that did not appeal to me, nor were the dogs too keen on slugging through mud and tall grass. Were I a through hiker, yes I would have slogged through it but NOT today! So we headed back to the parking garage after 2.5 miles. I knew I was on the ground level of parking garage building 2 but someone misplaced it after I left I think. I passed building 4 and 3 and then the next building was number 1. Two was not before or after it. So we did a half mile hiking around under the parking garage before we found 2 . It was behind 1 and only accessible by going up a level and ignoring the no dogs beyond here sign. It really felt strange hiking around garages with dogs in tow but we did ad a half mile! We got a lot of strange looks since signs everywhere said NO DOGS. I did check it out with a ranger that I could walk them through the garage without being afraid that some do good park employee would pull my Golden Age Passport.

Since it still was just passed noon I thought I would tour on to Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave National Monument. But before I knew it “Pretty Priss” (my cars name) was turning into the Crazy Horse Memorial. I think the spirit of Crazy Horse it what drew me here. It seems fitting to me to have a memorial to a Native American hero as well in this area. Since I am now “tight” with his descendants, I also figured it was a necessary visit. Somehow it never occurred to me that there would be yet another parking and admission fee. I paid the $11.00 dollars only after I checked their policy on bringing dogs in. Since dogs were allowed to be on the walks and the terrace, I thought I would join in the memorialization of Crazy Horse. It is such a massive undertaking as it is to be the worlds largest sculpture but remains a work in progress, since work commenced in1948. It more than likely will not be finished in my lifetime but I do hope my grandchildren will know the whole history that is personified in their area of the great American Presidents as well as Native American heroes and history.

Soon I was traveling on as dogs were not permitted in most building and it was way to hot to leave them in the car. As it was later in the afternoon both Wind Cave and Jewel Cave tours were sold out. I must admit, cave tours are not high on my bucket list of things to do on vacation so I was not terribly disappointed. It was quite enjoyable winding through the rolling grassland, pine-spruce forests, mountains, pinnacles of granite, ravines and spotting an occasional bison in the grasslands of Wind Cave NP. What a thrill it is to see those massive bison roaming free in the grassland of the national parks when not that many years ago thy were almost extinct. So it was back to our National Forest Campsite.

This campsite was right off of Highway 16A, an icon road in South Dakota that was an engineering marvel at the time and is still quite the thrill to drive up Iron Mountain with its hairpin turns, one lane bridges and tunnels. I can’t think of many people who would be drawn to want to stay at a campground named Grizzly Creek in Hells Canyon. The name certainly drew my attention and I made the reservation. Just had a thought. I hiked Blackberry Trail today and found NO blackberries. Bummer! Then I returned to Grizzly Creek and found NO grizzlies. Ecstatic. This was a delightful small primitive campground with no electric or showers. Good old aromatic vault toilets and spigots for water. I love it because I don’t have to shower for a change. I can just be au naturel. But the dozen site were occupied with mostly families and it was joyful to be able to see the young families (and often 3 generations together) in tents and hiking. Makes me yearn even more to be closer to my adult children and grandchildren. I then followed out usual camp routine of simple food on the Colemen stove, and a wonderful campfire. It is great how the smell of smoke on everything from the fires now covered a lot of what would be showered off!

 

Upon leaving Hot Springs around noon, I decided to make a “pilgrimage “ to the Wounded Knee Massacre Historical Site. I have always had a keen interest in Native American History and read “Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee” last year when I had hoped to make the trip here. Even though I have known of the bloody history and carnage brought on Native Americans in the name of the “white settlers” need for more land and more territory, I felt especially enraged at a new level upon reading this narrative of the stealing of land and territory and slaughter of Native Americans. It was important to me to visit this site and reflect and ponder again the terrible atrocities wrecked on the many tribes but especially the Lakota Nation as the site is in the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation and territory is in this area of South Dakota. There was such a sombre pall I felt as I gazed across the grasslands and upon the ridges there. It was a powerful vista and made even more so by the Oglala cemetery on a hill that is part of the massacre site. For someone like myself who has such a peaceful heart and soul, it is hard to even imagine such malice in the human heart.

I had the opportunity to converse with members of the Elk Family, “Hehaka Tiospaye” as they have an arts and crafts table at the site. They are Oglala Lakota, a tribe of the Sioux, a proud descant of “Crazy Horse. James talked with me about the massacre and took the time to point out the spots where the women and children were slaughtered but for one child he called ”Lost Bird.” Lost Bird lived many years and her grave could be found at the cemetery atop the hill where there is a well worn and aging monument to those slaughtered at Wounded Knee. A circle of “gifts” honoring the fallen was before the monument. The overgrown cemetery where tribal members have been buried throughout the years was also a sombre experience. I drove to the top of one of the highest hills and just gazed upon this land with a heavy heart. I tried to imagine what it must have been like back in the days when the native Americans were constantly routed from their native lands. In driving through the entire reservation area I observed that there was very little evidence of wealth but most areas appeared relatively impoverished and homes mostly manufactured and of small size.

It was time to journey onto Grizzly Creek Campground in the Black Hill near the town of Keystone – another one of the gaudy tourist trap towns to encourage people to buy more and more stuff that they don’t need but just have to have—- now I must admit that I too succumb to this “need” which is now focused on a T-shirt and patch from every national park. And for those of you who know my history I have enough T-shirts to wear a clean one every day for a year probably. Clearly this is a want but not a need!!

We arrived at the campground under a very threatening sky. I had just got out of the car and let the dogs out when immediately a strong wind blew in followed by driving rain and pelting hail. This was a fitting finale for a somber day. We just about dove back into the car and had a somewhat nerve-wracking hour waiting to be able to set up camp. Kili is petrified of storms and trembling, so his needing to be close to me didn’t make for it to be easier. I tried a phone call but the reception was so variable, it was a conversation of frustration! But finally it settled down to a very light drizzle so I opted to at least get the tent set up. Thank goodness I had my emergency $1.00 rain poncho handy. When it started up again I grabbed the ground cloth to cover up the tent so hopefully I would not be inside a soaked piece of nylon and netting. Here again, not thinking it through the bottom of the cloth was laden with dirt and now the slightly damp tent was dusted with dirt which i foresaw dusting me in the night as it dried and the winds blew. But the set-up eventually happened and I am so glad it is summer and light late so as not to have to negotiate everything in the dark.